Documentary about the history of big wave surfing.
Right from the start, a problem presents itself: how can a non-surfer relate to this? I guess you just let yourself go and enjoy the superficial elements in it: hey, lots of old footage -- wow, what huge waves -- look, how can they do that -- gee, that shouldn't have happened -- etc. A common problem in this kind of documentary is the relentless tone of amazement that pervades the narration and some of the testimonies. It gets tiresome, but again, this is an outsider speaking, so... But I wonder what it would feel like told in a distanced manner, without the rapture and the awe.
Rating: 47 (but probably above 80 for people who are into surfing)
Tuesday, January 06, 2009
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